Fixed by that upload:
pango1.0 (1.12.1-1ubuntu4) dapper; urgency=low
.
* Do not use FC_ANY_METRICS while listing, because that's a property
that is never matched exactly and so only valid when matching.
** Changed in: pango1.0 (Ubuntu)
Status: Confirmed => Fix Released
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Can't change fonts
https://launchpad.net/bugs/41103