I still had my .gtkrc-2.0 file around, from the kubuntu install. I installed "gtk2-engines-gtk-qt" and then restarted gnome, and was able to reproduce the problem. ** Attachment added: ".gtkrc-2.0" http://librarian.launchpad.net/2925369/.gtkrc-2.0.aside -- volume sliders inverted in gnome https://launchpad.net/bugs/41999